Tag Archives: rock shelter

Another Mystery

We were picking our way down a remote and rocky draw in the Morrison when my companion looked back and said, “What’s that?

We’re used to finding stone structures—stone is the building material out there—but we’d never seen anything like this. The unstable mudstone cliffs aren’t good for cliff dwellings, nor was this the regular, well-set look of an Ancestral Pueblo house or granary. Just stones, randomly stacked to fill a gap.

We scrambled up the tumbled cliff—always dicey, among the unstable fallen capstones—to see if we could understand what it was. Under the immense sandstone boulders, we found a room. 

The windward side had that gappy wall, though a sketchy barrier had been built on the open leeward side. Had the floor been built up with imported sand? Had those sawn posts, now fallen, held up a tarp of some sort? What looked like a bed of green juniper was a pack rat nest; the floor was thick with droppings. Among them were bits of rusty iron: a bolt, a rod, a strap from the leaf spring of a buggy or an early auto. What had once been in that metal frame? In the “forecourt” was a rusty bucket.

My guess would put the site in the thirties, latest. The ceiling was lightly smoked. Who lived here? Not in winter, certainly, nor during the monsoons. A sheepherder? So remote; were they in hiding? A moonshiner? An outlaw?

A lonely place, under looming stone. 

Baa, Baa, Fat Sheep

Mt Sheep? pictographUnder the overhang of a rock shelter was a pictograph that reminded me of a marrano, the pudgy gingerbread pig you can buy in every good Mexican bakery. For the (pigless and gingerless) pre-Columbian artist this may have represented a mountain sheep. It had been drawn in white, presumably gypsum, and outlined in red ochre. Each “slash” at the head was framed with yellow ochre.

I roamed off to snoop around a promontory over the creek, a flat expanse of red sandstone. Though there was a fallen, turn-of-the-century Hispanic ruin just west of it, the place felt untouched since earth’s morning. So quiet, so scoured by water and time—only flowers and the bending grass.

Reality, Comma, Various Aspects of

Mesas DB241We followed the water-scoured sandstone channels until they petered out, then crossed to the next gully west. This ended in a series of tinajas and a plunge pool. We crawled up to a rock shelter above—charcoal and sherds and rat poop—and clambered down to a second, even lovelier set of pools. There we put our backs against the stone and listened to the ponderosa sigh. Most beautiful tree, the ponderosa. Most beautiful voice, the peaceful tree.

In the midst of this communion with nature G. discovered that a thermos of coffee—cream and sugar—had come open in his pack.

Room with a View

Sheepherder shelterWarm sun, nippy wind. Socks full of stickers, had to stop every quarter mile to pick them out.

North of Stud Stallion Wash we crossed the pitted sandstone to the ridge. Tucked in a cliff face below a little ponderosa and above a cluster of dry tinajas—natural rain catchment tanks—we came upon what was probably a nineteenth-century sheepherder’s hole-up.

It was a smoke-blackened rock shelter partly enclosed by a stone windbreak. Cozy place. You could spread your skimpy bedroll behind the stone wall and look out over the wide saddle of the syncline with its mysterious stone circles and prehistoric deer-hunter meadows and, at night, a field of stars.

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